Wine Making
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In Grandmas Kitchen (Part I)
   
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One of my fondest childhood memories is being in the kitchen
with my Hungarian grandmother. I loved watching her chopping
vegetables, kneading dough, and leaning over bubbling pots in a
kitchen that was always filled with wonderful aromas. Id always
help her after schoolshelling peas or beans, scrubbing and
peeling vegetables, and when I got older, helping to prepare
dinner. My favorite was Friday dinnerwe would always have some
kind of savory soup followed by a noodle or sweet dish. I was
always a sweet tooth and looked forward to egg noodles with eggs
or jam, palacsinta (Hungarian crepes eaten with jam, cocoa, nuts
or sweet cheese fillings), and, in the late summer, silvas
gomboc (plum dumplings) topped with cinnamon sugar breadcrumbs.
Silvs Gomboc (Plum Dumplings)
The dough: 1 kg potatoes 3 egg yolks Tbsp butter A pinch of salt
1 cup flour
The filling: 2 pints of prune plums, pitted 1 box of sugar cubes
Ground cinnamon for sprinkling on plums
Topping: 1 stick of butter/equivalent amount vegetable oil 2-3
cups breadcrumbs 4-5 Tbsp granulated sugar A few dashes of
cinnamon
Cook the potatoes in salted water until done. Put a large
stockpot of salted water to boil. Mash the potatoes and add the
egg yolks, butter, salt, and flour (This can be done in a
standing mixer with the dough attachment) Add more flour as
needed to make a moist, firm dough. Roll the dough out on a
floured board and place pitted plums onto the dough. Sprinkle
the plums with cinnamon and place a sugar cube in the center of
each plum. Cut the dough in squares around the plums and form
dumplings (dip fingers in water to fasten the dough together
if necessary). Place dumplings gently into boiling water. Cook
until the dumplings rise to the surface and remove with a
slotted spoon; set aside.
Melt the butter in a frying pan. Add the breadcrumbs and brown
them over medium heat. Once the breadcrumbs are browned, add the
sugar and cinnamon.
Layer the dumplings and breadcrumb mixture in a heatproof
casserole dish. Cover and warm in the oven until ready to serve.
Serve with additional sugar sprinkled on top.
Sweet dishes, cakes, and cookies are a major component of
Hungarian cuisine and Hungarian cooks are great at taking
advantage of fresh, seasonal ingredients for their creations.
Summer is a wonderful time to eat in Hungarythe abundance of
fresh fruit and vegetables is amazinggooseberries, melons, sour
cherries, squash, beans, peas, tomatoes, and an abundance of
fresh herbs to flavor and garnish dishes. Most Hungarians with a
back yard plant fruit trees and vegetable gardens. My
grandparents continued that tradition after they immigrated to
Canada--we had a huge garden where we grew beans, peas, cabbage,
different varieties of squash, tomatoes, carrots, parsnips, as
well as essential herbs such as parsley and dill. We also had a
cherry tree, pear tree, and a sour cherry tree. Sour cherries
have recently become more widely available in North Americayou
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canned/jarred varieties are available in specialty grocery
stores (Trader Joes carries a good brand). Two of my favorite
recipes feature sour cherries. The first is a wonderful chilled
soup that refreshes even on the hottest summer day. The second
is a simple, versatile dessert for those craving something fresh
and fruity after dinner or with afternoon coffee.
Meggyleves (Sour Cherry Soup)
1 medium/large-sized jar of sour cherries (also known as Morello
cherries), strained. 1 liters water 150 g (or more to taste) 1
tsp ground cinnamon plus one cinnamon stick 2-3 pieces of lemon
rind (make sure the white part is trimmed off, otherwise the
rind will be bitter) 1 cup sour cream 1 Tbsp flour (special
blending flour for sauces/gravies works best)
Put the water, sugar, cinnamon, and lemon rind in a pot. Bring
to a boil and cook over medium heat until the liquid is well
flavored. Discard the cinnamon stick and add the cherries. Cook
over gentle heat for about 5 minutes. Mix the sour cream and
flour until well blended. Add a ladle full of the soup liquid
and mix well. Pour the mixture into the soup and simmer gently
until slightly thickened (about 5 minutes). Adjust sweetness by
adding more sugar to taste. Let the mixture cool to room
temperature and chill for 4 hours or overnight. Serve as a first
course or as a dessert.
The strained sour cherry juice can be mixed with chilled mineral
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This soup can also be made with gooseberries or apples. I have
also had a tasty version of this soup made with a mixture of
pears and plums and thickened with yogurt instead of sour cream.
This simple cake is a classic and can be put together in less
than 30 minutes.
Sour Cherry Cake
1 medium/large sized jar of sour cherries 150 g butter, softened
150 grams icing sugar 4 eggs, separated A pinch of salt and a
pinch of cream of tartar 180 g flour 1 tsp baking powder
Additional icing sugar for dusting on top Whipped cream
Preheat oven to 350F. Line a rectangular cake pan with waxed
paper. Cream together the butter and icing sugar until fluffy,
add egg yolks. Slowly add the flour and baking powder, mix well.
In a separate bowl, whip the egg whites with the salt and cream
of tartar until stiff peaks form. Slowly mix the beaten egg
whites into the batter until well incorporated. Pour into
prepared cake pan and spread evenly. Sprinkle the cherries on
top of the batter. Bake for about 35-40 minutes, or until the
top is golden and a tester comes out clean.
When the cake is cool, trim edges and cut into squares. Dust
with icing sugar and serve with whipped cream if desired.
Another classic recipe is rtes (strudel). Although many
Hungarians make strudel dough by handa long and messy
processfilo pastry from the freezer section does the trick.
Alms Rtes (Apple Strudel)
1 kg grated apples (granny smith work best) cup granulated
sugar 2 cups plain bread crumbs Ground cinnamon to taste 1
package of defrosted phylo pastry 1 stick of melted butter
Preheat oven to 350F. Unroll filo pastry and put 4 layers on a
clean kitchen cloth. Spread the apple filling in a long strip
(about 3 inches wide) at one end of the pastry. Top with sugar,
cinnamon, and a layer of breadcrumbs. Fold the sides of the
pastry inwards and roll the dough to make a long roll. Brush to
top of the roll with melted butter. Bake for 30 minutes, or
until the rtes is golden brown. Trim edges and slice into
pieces at an angle. Dust with icing sugar
Other rtes fillings include:
Sour cherry filling (drained, jarred cherries work best)
Substitute cherries for the apple in the above recipe.
Sweet Cheese filling You can use a mixture of cream cheese and
ricotta (250 g), mixed with 2 egg yolks, cup of sour cream, a
teaspoon of grated lemon rind, 200 g sugar, 1 teaspoon vanilla
extract, and cup raisins. Fold in 2 beaten egg whites and
spread the filling in a long strip (about 3 inches wide) at one
end of the pastry.
Another favorite sweet main dish my grandmother made was the
Hungarian version of rice pudding, usually served with a white
wine sauce. This was a Friday favorite.
Rizskoch (Rice Souffl)
Butter/oil spray for baking dish A handful of breadcrumbs 350 g
short grain rice 1 liter milk A pinch of salt 100 g butter 120 g
icing sugar 3 eggs, separated
Preheat oven to 350F. Prepare an over proof dish by greasing
with butter. Place rice and milk into a saucepan and bring to a
boil. Cook over gentle heat, stirring often, until the rice is
half cooked. Set the rice aside to cool slightly. Mix the
butter, sugar, and egg yolks and mix into the half-cooked rice.
Beat the egg whites until stiff peaks form. Fold into the rice
mixture and mix well. Spread the mixture into the prepared dish
and bake for about 30 minutes (or until the top is golden brown).
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1 cup/250 mL white wine 80 g icing sugar 3 egg yolks Juice of
half a lemon, plus 1 tsp grated lemon rind
In a double boiler, whisk egg whites, sugar, wine, lemon juice
and rind together. Continue whisking until the mixture is heated
and thickened, but do not let it boil. Serve hot or chilled over
the rice souffl.
Palacsinta (Hungarian crepes) are an indispensable dessert in
Hungary, and another Friday dinner classic. These thin pancakes
can be served with simple fillings (jam, cocoa, or cinnamon
sugar) or more elaborate fillings such as sweet cheese or ground
nuts mixed with a bit of rum and sugar. Fresh fruit or apples
sauted in butter and sugar until soft and caramelized are also
a nice filling.
Palacsinta
1 cup flour 2 eggs, lightly beaten 1 cup milk Pinch of salt
1Tbsp melted butter Vegetable oil or butter for frying.
Place the flour and salt into a bowl. Make a well in the center
and add the eggs. Begin whisking and slowly add the milk,
breaking up any lumps (you can also use a hand mixer to do
this). Stir in the melted butter.
Heat a few tablespoons in a skillet/frying pan. Pour a
ladle-full of the batter into the pan, tilting the pan to coat
the entire surface. Fry until the underside is golden brown and
use a spatula to flip the crepe to cook the other side. Re-oil
the pan and repeat. Stack the crepes on a plate and cover with
foil to keep warm. Serve with desired filling.
Ilonka Oszvald is the co-founder of Online Cooking.
About the author:
Ilonka Oszvald is the co-founder of Online Cooking.